There used to be a shop in an 18th century building the Binnen Oranjestraat, a side street close to where I lived in central Amsterdam the window of which was to look through the entire living memory of fragrance history. The shop is closed now, but curiously, whilst it was open, I never went inside. Maybe I was nervous that the smells might awaken memories that were best left sleeping.
Besides, I could still virtually smell the fragrances through the glass of the shop’s window. I can still smell them now, men’s colognes of the 1960s and 70s. They were bold, musky, swaggering things, with a wink of machismo that now just seems camp. They were the smells of uncles, neighbours, teachers; part and parcel of male life. Brut, Hai Karate, Old Spice, Aramis among others were the shorthand for what a man was supposed to smell like, and what a boy like me was supposed and wanted to grow into.
Brut was the king of them all. Boxer Henry Cooper told us in television advertisements to ‘splash it all over.’ And we did. We didn’t apply Brut with delicate dabs; we deployed it like a weapon. A green-bottled atmospheric event. Walk into a room and the oxygen tightened like a sadistic sergeant-major had barked orders at it. Pillows and clothing absorbed and remembered it for days.

Yet beneath the swagger, Brut carried a deeper promise of attention and awakening desire. For a teenage boy like me, wired with possibility and longing, that was enough.
So many gay boys of my generation did the same thing. We wore Brut For Men, or rather we wore Brut for men. It was for allure and as a lure, in the hope that a man might read something in it. In a world where there was much you couldn’t say out loud, scent became a kind of coded broadcast. A green‑bottled semaphore. We spoke Polari and smelled of Brut. There was no mistaking boys like me.
I can still see the boy I was. Getting ready to go out; excited, nervous and lonely, standing in front of a mirror, dousing himself in Brut as if subtlety were a personal insult. Grateful that he looked older than his years yet still hoping he would get served at the bar and that someone, some man, would notice and see him. And sometimes, someone did.
“Has anyone ever told you that you have come‑to‑bed eyes?” I heard that more than once. I loved it every time, and it worked every time. And then, afterwards, they’d ask, “How old are you, anyway?” and then nearly pass out when I told them. Fifteen, maybe sixteen. Not legal until twenty‑one. But I wasn’t thinking about being a crime-breaker, that was just something you got used to living with. But I was thinking about being wanted.
I never felt scandal or shame, either then or now, despite the judgment of my mother and teachers who tried their best to make my life impossible, which prompted my leaving them all behind as I escaped to London at 15 years old. I never doubted my homosexuality. I never had problems connected with it except those caused by the very people who were supposed to be my guardians.
I feel tenderness towards that boy in the mirror. He was naïve but he wasn’t foolish. He was improvising ways of surviving a world that gave him no language for what he felt. If I could speak to him now – that boy with the too‑tight shirt and the Brut halo, eyes too old and too young at the same time, I wouldn’t warn him or scold him. I’d just steady him. I’d tell him to stop worrying so much about being caught out, hold his head up, and just keep going — that one day he’d look back at all this madness with some affection.
I would tell him to follow his instincts, to continue without making any plans, that plans usually fall by the wayside as life takes over. And I would give him one of my favourite misquotes from Bette Davis in ‘All About Eve.’ “Fasten your seat belt. It’s going to be a bumpy ride.” Except he wouldn’t hear about Bette Davis and all those other gay icon divas until he had been taken in off the streets of London and cared for by an older generation of gay men who had made the same journey themselves a generation earlier.
And I can picture that boy perfectly – the tilt of his head, the half‑flirt, half‑challenge, the bravado covering the need.
He would look at me, take it all in, and say, “Can you lend me a fiver?”
Of course he would. And I would give it to him – because he needed the feeling that someone older, someone safe, someone who understood, could give him something without taking anything in return.
“Oh”, I would say. “And ditch the Brut.”













